Learn to Build – Boarding and Plastering
On the ceiling and timber stud partitions, the boards can be nailed with board nails, or screwed with board screws.
I found the cheapest place for these screws was ‘Screwfix’. My favourite method with a cordless drill.
Buy a good quality screw bit at the same time.If you have never cut a plasterboard before, you will be pleasantly surprised at just how simple it is. Measure the place where you want to put the board.
Transfer the measurements to the board by marking the board with the tip of the blade of your Stanley knife, one with a retractable blade is much safer, then using a straight edge, cut between the two marks.
There is no necessity to press on, simply score through the paper face of the board.
Turn the board away from you and give it a sharp karate chop where the line is, or alternatively hold the board at the top edge with one hand at each side of the line and use your knee.
It will break easily and neatly down the scored line.
Now use your knife to cut down the inside bend. You’re a professional! Remember that plaster boards have a face side so, bear this in mind when you are measuring.
Don’t panic, I have never noticed any difference when finish plastering…oops, I’ve just admitted that I made this mistake in the distant past.
Make the appropriate holes in the boards for the lighting before screwing.
Plastering the Walls
This can be accomplished two ways. The traditional method using a bonding or roughing coat, to get the wall flat.
Followed by the skim of finish plaster, trowelled to a smooth finish. The first coat can be of various materials, browning, bonding,(a bit stickier) a damp-proof bonding, used after the installation of silicone injection DPC, or sand & cement render.
But, for best insulation properties I recommend ‘dry lining’. Using 12mm thick 2400X1200mm boards stuck onto the wall with dry lining compound, blobbed in spots all over the back of the board. It couldn’t be easier.
I cut my boards to the correct height less 50mm to allow for electric cables to be run around the bottom of the room.
Before daubing the board with compound, I place a piece of wood 50mm thick against the wall.
This is to rest the board on before slamming it against the wall. Once against the wall, I use another stout piece of wood about 1200mm 4′ long to make sure that the board is tapped flat against the wall.
It’s that easy. Ask your electrician if he prefers a different method. I cut up the board, run the cables, cover with protection, and roughing plaster, before the final skim.
I plaster the wall right down to the floor to enable the skirting boards to be affixed with ‘No Nails’ or similar.