Learn to Build – Doors, Window, Conclusion

Learn to Build –  Doors -Window – Conclusion


The Windows and Doors

Using uPVC windows. Measure the opening accurately. Tell your manufacturer that this is to include the sill, and what style you want and he will do the rest. The opening must be one 20th of  the floor area=5%.

Means-of-escape windows or top-hung escape roof lights with clear minimum opening dimensions of .33m2 and 450mm within 800-1,100mm of floor level and 1,700mm of eaves level must be provided to II bedrooms and habitable rooms at the first- and second-storey levels and any new habitable rooms n the ground floor that are created by the works.

The escape windows should be positioned so that they can be accessed from a ladder from ground level.

Any glazing to new or existing doors or frames should be provided or replaced with 30-minute fire-resisting glazing.

Ventilation and Windows

To reiterate, window opening areas to habitable rooms must be a minimum of 5% of the floor area of the room they serve, typically 1.75 metres above floor level.

Rooms such as kitchens, utility rooms, bathrooms and toilets should have opening windows or doors for rapid ventilation.

Background or trickle ventilation must be provided to windows by means of hit-and-miss or two-stage catches unless a whole house mechanical ventilation system is employed.

Mechanical ventilation is to be employed to the following rooms, directly ducted to the outside air and equivalent to the following rates:

  • Kitchen: over hob 30 litres per second or 60 litres elsewhere
  • Utility room: 30 litres per second
  • Bathroom: 15 litres per second
  • Toilet (without an openable window): 6 litres per second

Toilets and bathrooms with no openable windows must have the fan linked to the light switch with a 15-minute overrun and a 10mm gap beneath the door for air supply.

Doors and adjacent sidelights or windows within 1,500mm of the ground and floor level and 300mm of doors must be fitted with toughened safety glass to BS6206.

So too must windows where the cill level is less than 800mm of the ground/floor level. All other windows must be draught-stripped and glazed with a minimum of either double glazing with a 16mm air gap and ‘soft’ Low-E coating or double glazing with a 12mm air gap, argon filled with a ‘soft’ Low-E coating to provide a minimum ‘U’ value of 2.0. or, in the case of metal-framed windows, 2.2.

Installing the uPVC Windows

Cut the sill 100mm too long. At the back of the sill measure 50mm in from each side, and from this mark measure 100mm forward towards the front of the sill.

Measure 100mm from the back towards the front at the ends, and you have the space to cut out to allow the sill to slip into place.

This will leave the front drip edge protruding and extending each side of the window opening by 50mm.

If you wish, run a couple of runs of silicone sealant before placing the sill in situ. Lift the window onto the sill up to the back edge of the sill.

The back edge should be in line with the back edge of the outside wall brick/block.

Your window manufacturer should have provided you with the end stops for the ends of the sill, fix them in at this stage.

The window will be fixed in place by 2 casement fixings at each side.

You will use 100mm X 8mm pre drill the holes in the part of the frame where the glass goes or where the opening window is.

Use a high speed twist drill to drill through the pvc frame.

With the frame in place sitting on top of the sill and perfectly perpendicular with the outside wall, drill, through the pre drilled holes, into the side walls of the window opening.

Use a 8mm masonry drill. Hammer home the 100mm long casement fixings.

Place the plastic spacers in the bottom of the frame, where the glass will sit.

Insert the panel of double glazed glass and tap home the beading.

This fits very tightly and is not easy to fit in.

You may need to use a rubber hammer or gently use a wooden mallet.

Install the two smaller beads first, then the longer ones.

Try to fit the corners before pushing the beading straight, and then tap home. Repeat this with the glass in the opener, and other windows.

It gets easier with practice…so easy, that you will wonder why the double glazing companies charge so much.

To finish the job and help make the window airtight, use a tube of spray polystyrene foam to seal around the inner edge of the frame where it touches the wall.

Shake the tube extremely vigorously before beginning to spray.

Do a test spray carefully before actually using it on the frame. On the outside use clear or coloured tube silicone.

This will waterproof the window frame and finish the job of making it airtight. Once again, practise using these trigger guns before using it on the frame.

You will have to experiment with cutting the nozzle, to get the correct thickness of the flow.

The smaller the hole, the harder it is to squeeze the trigger, and the more difficult to keep the flow even and straight.

This is why I recommend that you even waste a tube practising on something less visible or important.

Installing a uPVC Frame and Door

Follow the exact same method as for fitting a window. The only basic difference is the weight, and the number of casement fixings.

Because of the weight it is advisable to use at least 5 fixings per side and a couple at the top and bottom. These are hidden by the door when the door is closed.


You have built an extension. Do not be surprised when your neighbours and friends ask you to do the same for them. Here is your opportunity to make a packet of money. You have practiced on your own home and you will get better and better each time. Don’t be scared to ask a fair price, and get your extension costs repaid.

Once you have a bit of money in your pocket, move on to one of our other ‘proven money making methods’ such as 4X or the share market, or start your own website. See you in the Bahamas!


Whilst every effort has been made to provide you with the most accurate information, I strongly advise you to do your own research to verify the accuracy of all the above advice.

At all stages of the build,I recommend that you seek the advice of the Building Inspector prior to commencing the next stage. Good luck.

You’ve done it. You’ve built your own extension.

Flat Roof Update

Wykamol Group has launched Roof-sealer Plus, a one component, UV stable, solvent based multi-purpose roof repair coating membrane.

Roof-sealer Plus is suitable for use on flat and pitched roofs, corrugated asbestos, roof lights, flashings, roofing felt, gutters, slate, asphalt, lead, glasshouses, metal and fiberglass.

Roof-sealer Plus from Wykamol Group

Roof-sealer Plus offers a range of advantages: good adhesion; suitable for application in damp weather; instant protection; no wash off; effective solar reflectivity; reinforced membrane; covers small cracks; application in one coat; seamless; fully flexible; unaffected by temperature; is economical.

It is manufactured with fibre reinforcement pre-dispersed in the can, for ease of application with a brush or roller.

It requires no primer on most surfaces and is available in 5kg cans.